Of all the world-class kitchens
in the state of Louisiana – and I’ve visited more than a
few – my favorite has always been “Miss Elaine” Turk’s
in Eunice, a city of less than 12,000 in the heart of Cajun country.
Don’t bother looking for reviews of Miss Elaine’s kitchen
in newspapers or magazines, though. Elaine Turk’s kitchen was
open only to family and friends, and we had to take our shoes off outside
the door. Elaine kept her floors, kitchen and house spotless. How she
managed to do that with all the coming and going of relatives, friends,
eight children and their 19 grandchildren and three great-grandchildren
and all their friends, is a mystery to me.
But Elaine’s modest, ’50s era kitchen with its (real) knotty
pine cabinets and shallow double sinks (she never had a dishwasher)
could at times barely hold everyone who wanted to be there. It was THE
place to gather – especially before or after every major family
event. And many times my husband, Frank, and I and several of our five
children were happily among those crowds.
Elaine Marie Bollich of Mowata, La., became part of Frank’s family
when she
married one of his favorite cousins, Dr. Carl Edward Turk, a chiropractor
whose mother and Frank’s mother were sisters.
Frank loved to visit Carl
Edward as often as possible, especially during duck, goose and quail
season. And while the longtime hunting buddies were out in the fields,
I got to become friends with Elaine. A petite, feisty beauty from a
big German family (one of 13 children) she had beautiful black hair,
dazzling blue eyes, a droll sense of humor and was an amazing wife,
homemaker and mother. Affectionately known as “Noonie”to
her family, she was adored by her husband, children and all other relatives.
Watching Elaine and Carl Edward raise their children inspired me and
Frank towant a big family, too. But watching Elaine relentlessly keeping
up with the laundry for her family of 10 – with most of their
eight children playing sports most of the time – and seeing how
much food the kids went through daily, forewarned me that raising a
big family was hard work.
After Carl Edward died suddenly in 1986, “Noonie” continued
being her family’s “comfort, strength and warmth …
our safe place in the world,” her grandson Chris Belfour would
say at his grandmother’s memorial service last November. Elaine
was 74 when she died, and lived long enough to see all of their children
and their families happy and successful.
All four of Elaine’s
daughters – Sissy, Leslie, Judy and Monie – learned from
their mom to be good cooks too. Her sons – Carl, Frank, Joe and
Robert – are also good cooks and specialize in cooking wild game.
But they had to learn most of those recipes from their dad. Elaine did
not like, and never cooked or ate – the ducks, geese, quail and
other game her menfolk harvested.
Cooking was surprisingly not one of Elaine’s favorite homemaking
tasks, and she always downplayed her abilities. But everything she made
was memorable. Sissy remembers best the chocolate and coconut cream
pies and homemade hot chocolate; Judy her mom’s potato salad.
But all the kids agree that Elaine’s chicken and sausage gumbo
was in a class by itself, even when compared to that of famous cooks.
“I’ve eaten gumbo in every restaurant in Lafayette and New
Orleans and mom’s was hands-down the best. She had the touch,”
vouches her daughter Leslie Turk, a magazine editor and writer. “And
her coconut cream pie was to die for. After her stroke (a few years
ago) we teased her that she might have lost her touch, but she didn’t.
It just took her longer and she had to go over the ingredients several
times. Once she forgot to put the coconut in her pie and just waited
for everyone to take a bite to see if they noticed. And it was so good,
a couple of us didn’t. She got the biggest kick out of that.”
Elaine’s kitchen is closed now. Her children and grandchildren
gathered there as a family one last time at Christmas and soon her house
will be put up for sale. But if Frank and I can make it to Eunice before
that happens, all the Turk children have told us, they would love to
gather there with us again in the kitchen one more time, in memory of
our dear Miss Elaine.
